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| Hadrian's Arch: built to commemorate the visit of the Emperor Hadrian to Jerash in 129 AD |
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| Fountain constructed in 191 AD |
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| I still can't wrap my brain around how they carved those. |
Thursday, May 9, 2013
Jerash
Last weekend I visited Jerash, one of Jordan's tourist highlights, a city about an hour South of me. Archeologists have found artifacts that date back to the neolithic age (about 6500 years ago) but the city that remains today was developed about 2000 years ago. In 63AD, Jerash became part of the Decapolis under Roman rule. It became a huge trading hub and thus flourished, emperor after emperor building something more astonishing than the last. During the 3rd century, Jerash was at it's peak and had an estimated 20,000 inhabitants. However, the Persian invasion, the Muslim conquest, and a couple of earthquakes lead to the city's decline during the 8th century. It was left uninhabited, buried in sand for about a thousand years until a German guy discovered the ruins in 1806 and an excavation project started during the 20th century.
As I walked down the colonnaded street I couldn't help but imagine what I'ld be doing if I was living here 2000 years ago. My friend Judith and I decided we'ld likely be practicing our carving and etching skills. If people are still around 2000 years from now I wonder what they will find left behind by us? I wonder if they will find it as epic as we find this. Maybe. But I imagine they'll have to dig through a lot more than just sand to find it.
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Weekend update
After being sick almost all of last week, I am once again reminded to never take my health for granted. It was nothing serious, but unpleasant to say the least.
I recovered in time for the weekend. Friday consisted of Magluba for lunch with my neighbors followed by not one, but two weddings. 2 servings of kanafeh, 2 bebsis, and being forced to show off my best (read: not good) Arabian dancing skills 2 times. I think I may have mentioned this before, but in Jordan, weddings are gender segregated, meaning the men hang out in one room while the women in the other. Both rooms consist of mainly the same thing-- eating and dancing. The groom comes in at some point and him and the bride dance together. After the celebration, guests leave honking their horns and shooting fireworks or guns into the air in honor of the new couple.
Saturday I went on a quick shopping trip to Ajloun with my neighbor in search of new shoes and summer PJs. Bargaining is normal here, but I hate it and am quite terrible at it. Heba, on the other hand, is wonderful and got a pair of 15 JD shoes down to 10 and a pair of PJ pants from 4 JD down to 2.5. A good shopping buddy indeed.
I was happy to be back at school today. I'm finally getting to the point where I know and feel comfortable with most of the teachers and that my Arabic is descent enough that I can have conversations with them and they sometimes understand what I'm saying and vice-versa. I continue to love the kiddos, especially as I get to know them better.
Now that spring is here, I run into people I recognize in the streets more often and they are excited to invite me into their homes to meet their families and feed me. I never cease to be amazed by Jordanian hospitality and generosity.
And here, a few photos of mornings in Kufranjah
I recovered in time for the weekend. Friday consisted of Magluba for lunch with my neighbors followed by not one, but two weddings. 2 servings of kanafeh, 2 bebsis, and being forced to show off my best (read: not good) Arabian dancing skills 2 times. I think I may have mentioned this before, but in Jordan, weddings are gender segregated, meaning the men hang out in one room while the women in the other. Both rooms consist of mainly the same thing-- eating and dancing. The groom comes in at some point and him and the bride dance together. After the celebration, guests leave honking their horns and shooting fireworks or guns into the air in honor of the new couple.
Saturday I went on a quick shopping trip to Ajloun with my neighbor in search of new shoes and summer PJs. Bargaining is normal here, but I hate it and am quite terrible at it. Heba, on the other hand, is wonderful and got a pair of 15 JD shoes down to 10 and a pair of PJ pants from 4 JD down to 2.5. A good shopping buddy indeed.
I was happy to be back at school today. I'm finally getting to the point where I know and feel comfortable with most of the teachers and that my Arabic is descent enough that I can have conversations with them and they sometimes understand what I'm saying and vice-versa. I continue to love the kiddos, especially as I get to know them better.
Now that spring is here, I run into people I recognize in the streets more often and they are excited to invite me into their homes to meet their families and feed me. I never cease to be amazed by Jordanian hospitality and generosity.
And here, a few photos of mornings in Kufranjah
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| Good morning goats |
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| morning commute |
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| morning assembly |
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| 1st grade charmers |
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Obama visits Jordan
Early last Saturday morning I had the privilege of seeing President Obama, John Kerry, and US Ambassador to Jordan, Stuart Jones, speak in Amman. His talk was brief but poignant. Rather than talking more about politics, crisis, Syria, Israel, Palestine or Turkey, he talked to us and recognized the work of all those in the room that morning. Both President Obama and John Kerry took time afterwards to shake as many hands as possible-- mine included!
"I'ld like to introduce you to the very best embassy in the world." - Ambassador Stuart Jones
"We're blessed to have a president who also lived abroad as a young man. He understands what this is all about. And I think that's what gives him a very special connection to people all across this planet. It's why he has restored America's reputation in the world.... He has the vision that I know brings every one of you to this job." - Secretary of State, John Kerry
"I'm not gonna give a long speech, mainly because I've been giving long speeches everywhere.
The main thing I want to communicate is that when I come to a country, when John comes to a country, we get some attention, we get our faces in the newspaper, but... we leave. And, people's real impressions of what America's about, what our values are, how we treat each other, how we work together; those impressions are made by you.... your interactions with the people here in Jordan, with people here in the region. Your kindness, your generosity, your professionalism, your effort. All that, all that creates ripples of hope and friendships between the United States and other countries that will make all the difference in the world." - President Obama
"I know the work isn't always easy... I know that the hours are long and the pay is mediocre, but, my sense is the reason you do this is because, not only do you care deeply about our country and what it stands for, but you also recognize the common humanity in all of us." - President Obama
On Friday, Obama had a meeting and press conference with King Abdullah. Please take the time to watch it here or read the transcript here.
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"We're blessed to have a president who also lived abroad as a young man. He understands what this is all about. And I think that's what gives him a very special connection to people all across this planet. It's why he has restored America's reputation in the world.... He has the vision that I know brings every one of you to this job." - Secretary of State, John Kerry
"I'm not gonna give a long speech, mainly because I've been giving long speeches everywhere.
The main thing I want to communicate is that when I come to a country, when John comes to a country, we get some attention, we get our faces in the newspaper, but... we leave. And, people's real impressions of what America's about, what our values are, how we treat each other, how we work together; those impressions are made by you.... your interactions with the people here in Jordan, with people here in the region. Your kindness, your generosity, your professionalism, your effort. All that, all that creates ripples of hope and friendships between the United States and other countries that will make all the difference in the world." - President Obama
"I know the work isn't always easy... I know that the hours are long and the pay is mediocre, but, my sense is the reason you do this is because, not only do you care deeply about our country and what it stands for, but you also recognize the common humanity in all of us." - President Obama
On Friday, Obama had a meeting and press conference with King Abdullah. Please take the time to watch it here or read the transcript here.
Friday, March 1, 2013
A day in the life
It's hard to believe I've been at site for [only/ already] a month and a half. As I expected, and as Peace Corps spent 2 months telling me during PST, it's been an adjustment and every day has its ups and downs.
Here's a quick summary of what I've been spending most of my time doing.
The school week here is Sunday-Thursday and I teach English at the all girls' basic school, just down the hill (actually, down 3 very steep hills) from my house. I co-teach grades 1-5 with 3 different Jordanian English teachers. As there is just about everywhere in the world, there is a shortage of jobs here so Peace Corps does not send volunteers in to take jobs that other people are qualified for. Rather, my Jordanian counterpart and I work in the classroom together. I help introduce different ways of teaching (ie songs... so so many songs) and give the kids a chance to hear and interact with a native English speaker. Many of the Jordanian teachers have their degrees in teaching, know the students, can translate in Arabic when needed, and have worked at the school for several years. One of my counterparts has worked there for 30-some years and recently announced that this is her last year! Happy for her, sad for us.
There are 6 or 7 periods each day and I usually teach about 4 of them. During off periods I am supposed to be lesson planning, but often get called in to drink tea and eat with the principle and vice-principle and whoever else has a free period and sometimes get impromptu Arabic classes.
The kids are great most of the time. Today I spent my off day working on Classroom Rules signs. Kids are very enthusiastic to participate for the most part, but raising your hand, listening to others while they speak and not shouting are still hard concepts to grasp-- even for the older kids. I'm supposed to model "positive discipline" (not yelling) but have slipped up on that here and there. They're so cute though. And it's always exciting that moment when it finally clicks. They all greet me "Good morning Miss Emily". It being a small town, I run into the kids a lot and sometimes at 4 in the afternoon they'll say the same thing-- still cute, but we gotta keep working on greetings and times of the day.
Sundays and Tuesdays I work at the Knowledge Station (a community center with a computer lab) and teach 2 after school English classes, for 3rd-5th graders from 2-3:00 and for 6th-8th graders from 3-4:00. More and more girls show up each time- it makes me happy to know they like it so much that they're telling their friends.
On Mondays and Wednesdays I teach a TOEFL (test of English as a foreign language) class for adults. Most masters' programs require you to pass the TOEFL exam to be accepted to the University. The test is really hard and it reminds me of the SATs. The class started out with about 12 students but has dropped down to 4. Most who signed up really need a grammar or conversation class before they can really get much out of the class. It's a lot of work at my end- lots of preparation because there is no fixed curriculum for it yet. I prefer working with the kiddos and once the TOEFL course winds down (in a couple of months) I think I will mainly focus on after school programs for kids and maybe a couple of laid back, drop in conversation classes for adults.
So, weeks are busy. I come home around 4:30 most days exhausted. I often get invited to go have lunch with my landlord's family so take them up on that and then usually take a nap. After lunch we'll go watch TV and lay on the farshas and then someone inevitably puts some sort of magical blanket on me that puts me into a deep sleep. They tell me it's addi (normal/no problem) to sleep there. It was awkward at first waking up to either no one in the room or to like 8 people in the room, but now it really has become addi. When possible, I do try to make it all the way down stairs and next door to my house to nap.
As the weather begins to get warmer, I am trying to do more exploring outside in my free time. The other day after class I got invited to go to a teachers' house who lives in a town nearby. We walked through Wadi Kufranjah, a beautiful valley with almond trees, a river, wild flowers. It's so close to my house and I had no idea!
All in all, life is good. Starting a new job, moving, and learning a new language are 3 tiring things. Doing them simultaneously is extra tiring. Thus-- I feel like I am tired all the time. Even with constant tea, nescafe, turkish coffee, arabic coffee, bebsi (there's no p sound in arabic so Pepsi is bebsi ;) and so on, I still feel tired. I'm hoping another month or 2 the learning curve will start to level out a bit, and as the days will get warmer and longer, my body and mind will start to adjust.
Here's a quick summary of what I've been spending most of my time doing.
The school week here is Sunday-Thursday and I teach English at the all girls' basic school, just down the hill (actually, down 3 very steep hills) from my house. I co-teach grades 1-5 with 3 different Jordanian English teachers. As there is just about everywhere in the world, there is a shortage of jobs here so Peace Corps does not send volunteers in to take jobs that other people are qualified for. Rather, my Jordanian counterpart and I work in the classroom together. I help introduce different ways of teaching (ie songs... so so many songs) and give the kids a chance to hear and interact with a native English speaker. Many of the Jordanian teachers have their degrees in teaching, know the students, can translate in Arabic when needed, and have worked at the school for several years. One of my counterparts has worked there for 30-some years and recently announced that this is her last year! Happy for her, sad for us.
There are 6 or 7 periods each day and I usually teach about 4 of them. During off periods I am supposed to be lesson planning, but often get called in to drink tea and eat with the principle and vice-principle and whoever else has a free period and sometimes get impromptu Arabic classes.
The kids are great most of the time. Today I spent my off day working on Classroom Rules signs. Kids are very enthusiastic to participate for the most part, but raising your hand, listening to others while they speak and not shouting are still hard concepts to grasp-- even for the older kids. I'm supposed to model "positive discipline" (not yelling) but have slipped up on that here and there. They're so cute though. And it's always exciting that moment when it finally clicks. They all greet me "Good morning Miss Emily". It being a small town, I run into the kids a lot and sometimes at 4 in the afternoon they'll say the same thing-- still cute, but we gotta keep working on greetings and times of the day.
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| School campus |
On Mondays and Wednesdays I teach a TOEFL (test of English as a foreign language) class for adults. Most masters' programs require you to pass the TOEFL exam to be accepted to the University. The test is really hard and it reminds me of the SATs. The class started out with about 12 students but has dropped down to 4. Most who signed up really need a grammar or conversation class before they can really get much out of the class. It's a lot of work at my end- lots of preparation because there is no fixed curriculum for it yet. I prefer working with the kiddos and once the TOEFL course winds down (in a couple of months) I think I will mainly focus on after school programs for kids and maybe a couple of laid back, drop in conversation classes for adults.
So, weeks are busy. I come home around 4:30 most days exhausted. I often get invited to go have lunch with my landlord's family so take them up on that and then usually take a nap. After lunch we'll go watch TV and lay on the farshas and then someone inevitably puts some sort of magical blanket on me that puts me into a deep sleep. They tell me it's addi (normal/no problem) to sleep there. It was awkward at first waking up to either no one in the room or to like 8 people in the room, but now it really has become addi. When possible, I do try to make it all the way down stairs and next door to my house to nap.
As the weather begins to get warmer, I am trying to do more exploring outside in my free time. The other day after class I got invited to go to a teachers' house who lives in a town nearby. We walked through Wadi Kufranjah, a beautiful valley with almond trees, a river, wild flowers. It's so close to my house and I had no idea!
All in all, life is good. Starting a new job, moving, and learning a new language are 3 tiring things. Doing them simultaneously is extra tiring. Thus-- I feel like I am tired all the time. Even with constant tea, nescafe, turkish coffee, arabic coffee, bebsi (there's no p sound in arabic so Pepsi is bebsi ;) and so on, I still feel tired. I'm hoping another month or 2 the learning curve will start to level out a bit, and as the days will get warmer and longer, my body and mind will start to adjust.
Saturday, February 9, 2013
A Jordanian Picnic
Yesterday I was invited to go have a picnic in Wadi Rajib, a valley about 30 km northwest of Kufranjah with my landlord's sister and daughters and a couple of nephews. Forsaking my big Friday plans to do laundry and clean my house, I decided to go and it was AMAZING.
It took a while to get to this viewpoint, but clearly it was well worth the journey. We parked the car in a field, and carried all of our picnic supplies through a very muddy, blustery field, through some bushes, up hills, down hills, past some goats in another blustery field, until we finally arrived at the perfect picnic spot.
A wonderful day indeed.
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| A view of the valley (arabic 101: wadi=valley) |
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| Pictures never give natural beauty justice. But imagine this x 1000. The waterfall is beautiful and the caves protected us from the wind. |
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| We decided to go exploring. Point of destination is the cave in the top center of the photo, right behind the green shrub. |
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| The voyage was not easy. |
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| Don't let her fool you. |
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| But we made it! |
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| The caves are remnants of a Byzantine church, likely from the 6th century. Some of the mosaics are still in tact. |
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| At one point, this was the inside of a church. |
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| Notice the one very wet pant leg. |
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| We returned safely in time to make and enjoy lunch. Complete with jadge, salata, patata, and cake. In Jordan PB&Js and granola bars just don't cut it. |
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| After several hours, we moved spots and settled down to drink some gawha (coffee) and watched... |
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| ...as some sheep passed by... |
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| ...and huddled together as the sun went down before finally heading home. |
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
Home
I never imagined that my first time living alone would be in a house in a village in Northern Jordan. For the first 18 years of my life, I lived in the same house in Seattle. I will always consider that home. In fact, the night before I left for Peace Corps I slept in the same room that I slept in when I was 3 years old. However, since turning 18, I've lived in 5 different countries, 7 different cities, and maybe a dozen different houses. I've lived alone for a month or 2 a couple of those places, but up until now I've primarily lived with either my family or roommates. It's strange yet liberating living alone.
I arrived in Kuranjah a week ago today, and finally have my house set up to a point where it is beginning to feel more like a home. It's nice. It has it's quirks, but is in by no means a "hut" that we sometimes envision Peace Corps Volunteers living in. And the view.... well. The view is pretty incredible.
I have a view of the Ajloun Castle (on the far left), am close to the school I'll be working at, have a fruit stand right down the street and a duukan just past that. A bit further down the road is the supermarket, the bank, tons of bakeries, butcher shops showing off hanging carcases, the post office, shops, the bus stop. Most things I want or need I can find here. I even found peanut butter!
My landlord and his family live upstairs, and they are all truly wonderful. They have 9 grown children, the youngest is 16. I have been invited over for lunch every day since I have arrived and often stayed well past 10 to chat, drink tea, eat cake, drink coffee, eat fruit, drink tea, watch tv, chat, drink nescafe, until finally I insist that it is time for me to go to sleep. None of them speak much English. Their idea of speaking "shway shway" (slow slow) is a bit different than mine. Regardless, I've been able to pick up on a fair amount of what they say and when things get really confusing, there's google translate.
In this blog, I try to focus on the positive things- there are so many wonderful things to share about my experience here and about the people and the country. But it should not go unnoted that I have my daily struggles. It's uncomfortable getting stared at by the shebab (teenage boys). I get lonely at times. Being unable to communicate everything I want to is frustrating. It's hard reading the news and remembering where I am, and how much pain there is in places very near me and feeling helpless in being able to change or alleviate the suffering of others.
Rather than feeling constantly overwhelmed, I try to focus on the good- the view outside my bedroom window, the kindness of my neighbors, the baby goats that live next door, the little girl who helped me carry my bags of fruit and veggies back to my house, the person who goes out of their way to walk you to the bus stop to ensure you get on the right one. I could on, and trust me, I will...
I arrived in Kuranjah a week ago today, and finally have my house set up to a point where it is beginning to feel more like a home. It's nice. It has it's quirks, but is in by no means a "hut" that we sometimes envision Peace Corps Volunteers living in. And the view.... well. The view is pretty incredible.
I have a view of the Ajloun Castle (on the far left), am close to the school I'll be working at, have a fruit stand right down the street and a duukan just past that. A bit further down the road is the supermarket, the bank, tons of bakeries, butcher shops showing off hanging carcases, the post office, shops, the bus stop. Most things I want or need I can find here. I even found peanut butter!
My landlord and his family live upstairs, and they are all truly wonderful. They have 9 grown children, the youngest is 16. I have been invited over for lunch every day since I have arrived and often stayed well past 10 to chat, drink tea, eat cake, drink coffee, eat fruit, drink tea, watch tv, chat, drink nescafe, until finally I insist that it is time for me to go to sleep. None of them speak much English. Their idea of speaking "shway shway" (slow slow) is a bit different than mine. Regardless, I've been able to pick up on a fair amount of what they say and when things get really confusing, there's google translate.
In this blog, I try to focus on the positive things- there are so many wonderful things to share about my experience here and about the people and the country. But it should not go unnoted that I have my daily struggles. It's uncomfortable getting stared at by the shebab (teenage boys). I get lonely at times. Being unable to communicate everything I want to is frustrating. It's hard reading the news and remembering where I am, and how much pain there is in places very near me and feeling helpless in being able to change or alleviate the suffering of others.
Rather than feeling constantly overwhelmed, I try to focus on the good- the view outside my bedroom window, the kindness of my neighbors, the baby goats that live next door, the little girl who helped me carry my bags of fruit and veggies back to my house, the person who goes out of their way to walk you to the bus stop to ensure you get on the right one. I could on, and trust me, I will...
Sunday, January 20, 2013
I do solemnly swear...
“....that I will support and defend the
Constitution of the United States against all enemies, foreign and
domestic; that I will bear true faith and allegiance to the same; that I
take this obligation freely, without any mental reservation or purpose
of evasion; and that I will well and faithfully discharge the duties of
the office on which I am about to enter. So help me God.”
Tuesday, January 15, 2013 I officially began my service in Jordan as one of the Peace Corps' 25 newest volunteers!
The ceremony itself was great. The US Ambassador to Jordan was there to conduct the official swearing in. More exciting for me was being in the same room with all of my friends (PC friends that is...), my host family, Peace Corps staff, and people from different organizations in Jordan who were there to support us.
Every new beginning seems to be bittersweet, in the sense that it usually means that something else is ending. Pre-Service Training is known throughout the Peace Corps community as being quite tedious and some even consider it the hardest part of being a volunteer. That's kinda true. But--- I loved the village I was in, my host family, and that I got to see the other volunteers every weekend. So amidst the excitement, it was hard coming to terms that that was all ending.
Busses left bright and early Wednesday morning. Hugs and goodbyes were exchanged as luggage was being dragged and carried to their respective vehicles. I got in a smaller van with 3 other girls who are in the same governate as I am and before I knew it we were off!
About 40 minutes later, I get a phone call from Aqmad, a PC staff member, telling me there was a giant blue duffel bag with my name on it back at the center. My bad. Our driver was cool and pulled a quick u turn. Back to Madaba we went. We got my bag and decided to get some falafel sandwiches while we were at it. Then, off we went, for real this time.
I made it safe and happy. But more on that later.
Tuesday, January 15, 2013 I officially began my service in Jordan as one of the Peace Corps' 25 newest volunteers!
The ceremony itself was great. The US Ambassador to Jordan was there to conduct the official swearing in. More exciting for me was being in the same room with all of my friends (PC friends that is...), my host family, Peace Corps staff, and people from different organizations in Jordan who were there to support us.
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| The Peace Corps ladies, dressed in Jordanian traditional dress |
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| Myself, Georgina, Elenoire, Daniel, and James-- the folks from my Arabic class and village during all of PST. |
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| My host fam giving me some celebratory (and good bye) hugs! |
Busses left bright and early Wednesday morning. Hugs and goodbyes were exchanged as luggage was being dragged and carried to their respective vehicles. I got in a smaller van with 3 other girls who are in the same governate as I am and before I knew it we were off!
About 40 minutes later, I get a phone call from Aqmad, a PC staff member, telling me there was a giant blue duffel bag with my name on it back at the center. My bad. Our driver was cool and pulled a quick u turn. Back to Madaba we went. We got my bag and decided to get some falafel sandwiches while we were at it. Then, off we went, for real this time.
I made it safe and happy. But more on that later.
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